The Project

The site of Hofstaðir is one of the most important Viking Age settlement sites in the North Atlantic region, and has become the center of a multi-year international, interdisciplinary investigation by the FSÍ since 1995. First excavated in 1908, the site certainly represents one of the first chieftain’s farms established in this part of Iceland, and has been (controversially) identified as the location of a pagan temple. For more information on the site and the current project, see the reading list attached.

What We Offer You

This field school is intended to provide an intensive experience of Norse and Icelandic archaeology, allowing students to excavate both large sod structures and well stratified midden deposits with direct supervision and instruction of an internationally recognized team of experts. You will have the chance to experience first hand an international, multi-disciplinary project, interact with specialists and visiting scholars, and experience all phases of a modern field project in the north. You will also attend lectures one day a week on a series of topics (see course syllabus) and complete a written problem based on actual Icelandic data sets. Weekly field will introduce you to the geology, settlement history, and traditional agriculture of this scenic and historic area. There will also be opportunities for unguided hiking on marked trails in the nature conservancy area and shopping in the nearby fishing town of Husavík. Accommodations and food will be the best we can offer, and we will make every attempt to make sure you have a rewarding and enjoyable experience in northern archaeology.

What We Expect From You

We expect you to come prepared- with the field gear listed below, in reasonable physical condition (ready to use shovels and wheel barrows all day), and with your background reading completed. We expect you to work hard, and take both your field jobs and your study work seriously. You are part of a professional team whose first responsibility is to the site, and to the proper recovery and documentation of the Icelandic past. We expect you to get along with each other, with local people, and with the staff. As you may have discovered already, archaeology is a team sport, and rewards a cooperative attitude and the good manners and thoughtfulness required for close-quarters living in a demanding environment. Tolerance, consideration, and a sense of humor are as vital tools for archaeologists as trowels and notebooks- practicing Sesame Street virtues will take you far in this discipline. Realize that different cultures really do have different customs and expectations, and that you are the visitors here. We will work hard to maintain morale and will never ask you to do anything we don’t do ourselves - if you have a problem of any sort we want to know immediately. But we expect you to do your part and behave as responsible adults and members of a cooperative team. We reserve the right to remove any student from the school who consistently fails to fulfill these expectations.

Working Conditions

The normal working day is from 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM, though weather may either shorten or lengthen this day, and major finds tend to be made at quitting time. The workweek is normally 5 days, with two days reserved for field trips, lectures and exercises. There will normally be a morning coffee/tea break, an hour lunch break, and thermos tea and coffee at all times for the thirsty or hypothermic. There will be an unheated trailer near the site for lunch breaks and equipment storage, and the farmers have kindly made their modern bathroom available for our use (please keep it clean!). We will move you around the site on a regular rotation, so that you can get experience of different contexts and types of excavation, but be aware that unturfing and backfilling is hard, all-hands labor with shovel and wheel barrow. The site is in an open grassy field near the head of a long valley reaching from the lakeside to the sea over the horizon to the north. While it is reasonably protected, there can be cold winds and rain with little warning. Black flies are a variable presence (Mývatn means midge lake), and can be profoundly obnoxious. Note that these are not the bloodthirsty Maine variety, and often fail to bite, but their swarming is annoying. Head nets and repellent (see Gear) are usually effective.

Living Conditions

You will be housed in a modern boarding school about 25 minutes drive from the site. This school has dorm-style double rooms with beds, closet, and desk, and is fully equipped with multiple hot showers, flush toilets, electricity (220V) as well as a restaurant sized kitchen, refrigerator and freezer. There is has a telephone (bring your long distance card for international calls) and email and fax communications can be arranged. It is rather plush accommodation by archaeological standards, and be aware that we are using it through special arrangement with the local community. Modern towns nearby offer (expensive) restaurant food and small shops, post cards etc., and you can stock up on candy bars there. Food will be basic and filling (bread, cheese, cold cuts, fish, lamb, pasta, rice, potatoes, with some vegetables and fruit, plus a wide array of spices) and will not be rationed (but don’t eat the last orange without telling us!). Please note that strict vegetarians or severely lactose-intolerant students will not be easily accommodated, and should probably choose a different field situation. Candy and any beverages other than tea, milk, or coffee will be on you. Emergency medical care is locally available, and evacuation to world-class hospitals would be possible if needed, but please follow the safety lectures anyway.

Iceland and Icelanders

Iceland is a remarkably beautiful mid-Atlantic island with landscapes that range from rolling green hills, to rugged snow capped mountains, to huge glaciers, waterfalls, bird cliffs, active volcanic hot spots- places that look like Ireland and places that look like NE Greenland may be a few minutes drive apart. Iceland was the model for both Rivendell and Mordor for Tolkien, who visited many times in his role as professor of old Norse. Iceland’ weather is highly variable (Aif you don’t like it, wait 15 minutes), and summers are cool (averages in the 50's F, but highs in the 70's and lows in the 40's are not uncommon). The south coast gets the most rain, and the Northern interior (where you will be digging) gets the least, but frequent rain and gales are a fact of life everywhere. Wind chill is the main problem, and the best approach is layering of insulation and windbreaker.

Iceland’s history has been both rich and occasionally grim - major population loss due to volcanism, starvation, and epidemic disease kept the pre-modern population around 50,000 for centuries. Iceland was a colony of Denmark until 1944, and the long (peaceful) struggle for independence and national revival and modernization is a constant background to the modern culture. Since independence, both population and national prosperity have dramatically increased, transforming a once backward rural colony into a modern Scandinavian country with a high standard of living. People whose grandparents lived in sod houses now own multiple computers and vacation in Florida, and Icelanders are well aware of the amount of hard work that went into this transition. Conflict over cod is not trivial where 70% of the national product comes from the sea, and some tensions remain over the NATO base at Keflavík, but you will be generally forgiven your nationality if you are polite. The present population is around 250,000, with the majority living in or around the capital of Reykjavik (ca. 150,000). Reykjavik is a trendy, clean, safe, modern city, with mall, walking streets, world-class restaurants (including Thai and Vietnamese), an active nightlife, and a high density of cultural centers, bookshops, galleries, and computer shops. English is widely spoken (esp. by people under 50), and there will be little communication problem in most places (which is good, as Icelandic is not an easy language to pick up). The next largest city is Akureyri (15,000), a pleasant town about 2 hours drive from the site, and the rest of the population is spread in small towns and farms around the country. Icelanders are very plugged in, and a search for Iceland on the www will prove interesting. Travel guides (try the “Lonely Planet”, series) are also helpful.

Icelanders are friendly and courteous to visitors (even tourists), but may appear somewhat reserved (don’t be fooled: most Icelanders have a rich store of ironic and fairly black humor to draw upon, and they probably think you are pretty funny even if they don’t let on...). Icelanders (like other Scandinavians) use space and speech somewhat differently than most North Americans, being comfortable with silence and somewhat more personal space. From their perspective, Anglos tend to chatter constantly, stand too close, and are generally noisy and pushy. When in doubt, don’t try to fill up gaps in conversation with chatter, and if the rest of the table is companionably silent, don’t think you need to entertain with the story of your life to date. Your basic table manners and common sense courtesy will smooth over most problems, but DO take your shoes off when coming indoors, and ALWAYS thank the host elaborately for any food or coffee offered before rising from the table. Remember at all times that you are a guest in somebody else’s country, and that you have been proceeded by plenty of ugly Americans, Canadians, Germans, etc. already- try hard to be nice and you will get a good response. One important note: you can drink tap water anywhere, but look out for the hot water- it is often geothermal and can give you a burn if you aren't careful in the shower!

Personal Gear You Must Bring

• Passport: (no special visa required). It Is a good practice to make a photocopy of the first page (with your picture) and carry this separately in case you lose the original.

• Health Insurance Card: Most programs cover travel, but please check.

• Health Certificate: Including recent tetanus immunization, see the registration packet.

• Any personal medication: you are taking (prescription and many over the counter drugs are not available in Icelandic pharmacies- this includes decongestants and most cold remedies).

• Rain gear: top and pants, NOT Gore-Tex or similar, but the old fashioned (and cheaper) heavy duty rubberized kind. Look for the sort used by fishermen and construction folk.

• Windbreaker: windproof over jacket, preferably loose enough to layer beneath.

• Insulation: Fleece jacket/vest, heavy sweater, wool shirt(s), wool hat, thermal underwear are all useful. Think layering, and do not forget the hat. Note that the excellent and colorful Icelandic sweaters are cheaper in Reykjavik than abroad, and these are top-quality insulation for Icelandic conditions.

• Socks: heavy wt. wool Ski socks are best, excellent with lighter under socks. You will want dry feet, and 6-8 pairs will usually do this.

• Boots: Rubber boots for wet days and work or hiking boots for other times. Slippers can be useful for in-house wear.

• Work Clothing: Work gloves, long pants, long sleeve shirts with long tails (black flies), but also bring some lighter clothing to wear indoors and on nice days. Think old and sturdy.

• Bathing suit: Yes. There is a pool (small & outdoor, but popular)

• Sleeping Bag: You will be using this inside, but you will probably want to take this camping at least once during the stay, so a bag rated to +10F or below is best.

• Personal Trowel: we have spares, but you’ll want to bring your favorite.

Useful but Not Required

• Finger less gloves (for cold days)

• Insect repellent (your choice)

• Insect head net (we will issue, but you may want your own)

• Billed cap/Baseball cap (useful for holding rain & bugs at bay)

• Extra stuff sacks (laundry)

• Novels & Improving Books: English language books are available, but often expensive in Reykjavik, not usually available in the country.

• Money- Iceland has Scandinavian prices. Visa cards work everywhere, and it is easy to change money in Reykjavik, Akureyri and Husavík (airport or banks downtown).

• Credit card, international phone card, student ID (some discounts are available)

Don’t Bring

• Firearms

• Knives bigger than Swiss army

• Recreational drugs of any kind

We expect you to come prepared- with the field gear listed below, in reasonable physical condition (ready to use shovels and wheel barrows all day), and with your background reading completed. We expect you to work hard, and take both your field jobs and your study work seriously. You are part of a professional team whose first responsibility is to the site, and to the proper recovery and documentation of the Icelandic past. We expect you to get along with each other, with local people, and with the staff. As you may have discovered already, archaeology is a team sport, and rewards a cooperative attitude and the good manners and thoughtfulness required for close-quarters living in a demanding environment. Tolerance, consideration, and a sense of humor are as vital tools for archaeologists as trowels and notebooks- practicing Sesame Street virtues will take you far in this discipline. Realize that different cultures really do have different customs and expectations, and that you are the visitors here. We will work hard to maintain morale and will never ask you to do anything we don’t do ourselves - if you have a problem of any sort we want to know immediately. But we expect you to do your part and behave as responsible adults and members of a cooperative team. We reserve the right to remove any student from the school who consistently fails to fulfill these expectations.

How to excavate - a beginners guide from NABO

• Sequence of excavation is: dig, clean, photo, draw, measure, dig

• The “dig” part can involve heavy machinery, shovel and wheelbarrow, or (most commonly) a combination of trowel, dustpan, brush, and bucket.

• “Clean dirt” is a surface or profile that is freshly cut, with all loose crumbs of dirt, roots, or other loose debris cleared off so that you can see the edges of features (pits, walls, etc.) and different layers. If you are told to clean an area, try to plan your work so that you don’t move loose dirt onto your neighbor’s freshly cleaned surface (be careful about using brushes). Clean from top (higher surfaces) down. Try not to smear dark materials over light surfaces or vice versa. DON’T walk on a cleaned surface. Think about hand-scrubbing a large floor so as to avoid having to go over the same area twice and you will get the general idea.

• “Cleaning for Photography” is a more obsessive version of cleaning a surface. The camera will pick up many distractions (loose dirt, gear or tools in the background) that your eye will edit out. Do not be surprised or offended if you are asked to re-clean an area for the last bits just before a record photograph.

• Edges of excavation units are fragile- stand WELL BACK from unit edges and enter and leave only where you are instructed. ANYONE collapsing a section (profile) owes the project a case of beer (at Icelandic prices!).

• Grid points (Stakes or nails in the ground) are important to measurements and are time-consuming to put in- please be careful not to knock them out.

• Finds should be removed only when you have dug down to their base- don’t pluck out that whetstone the first time you see a corner emerging! Most artifacts will be measured in, so ask before lifting.

• When in doubt - always ask, and keep asking until you are sure you are doing it right.

• Wheelbarrows: are much easier to push if they are not over-filled. Everyone pushes them in turn (no aristocrats), but pushing one that is part- full is OK (don’t exceed your strength either). Be careful near excavation edges and when it is raining, as they can go out of control easily (especially if they are too full).

• Shovels/Spades: to cut turf or hard dirt, use the full weight of your body on the step (sharp shovel helps). Shovel skimming (western N American specialty) can produce as smooth a surface as a trowel, but requires practice, broad bladed sharp hoes (French specialty) are also good for clearing surfaces quickly. NB: ALL shovels, spades, hoes, etc. are placed EDGE DOWN when you are done with them.

• Buckets: should be filled only as full as you can lift! Please DON’T sit on buckets, NEVER throw empty buckets.

• Trowels: the sharp, flexible (Marshalltown) type is most useful for Icelandic soils (and are FSI issue), but the thick sturdy (WHS) type can also be useful. Bring your own, or use ours, but a sharp edge is useful for cutting edges and turf. After a bit, you will find yourself identifying stone, bone, and wood charcoal by their sound and “feel” when your trowel contacts them.

• Brushes: damp soil conditions (common in Iceland) make brushes less useful than in other regions. Ask before using.

• Dustpans: use these to keep your “loose” (excavated dirt) scooped up and in the bucket. A good excavator keeps their pile of loose small and under control (so you don’t push it into your neighbor’s way, or step on it and create a new “layer” to discover tomorrow). Before leaving your area at break or end of day, ALWAYS use your trowel and dustpan to clean up all loose in your area.

• Fine Excavation Kit: There should be one of these in each tool box (forceps, needles, fine brushes), but you should normally TELL A SUPERVISOR when you find something that needs this sort of attention.

• Sieves: Be careful in loading the tray (don’t over fill or it will tip, make sure third chain is attached) and don’t put in too much loose at one time. Remove stones (checking that they are not worked) early on to avoid crushing bones, be aware of small items that may slip through the mesh. Try to work with the sun behind you, feel free to adjust sieve height for maximum back comfort.

HELPFUL HINTS FOR MAKING FRIENDS AND IMPRESSING SUPERVISORS

NOT SO GOOD SIGNS

• Always first back for tea/lunch/break, always last back to work.

• Serious conversationalist, but not paying attention to digging.

• Never pushes wheelbarrow, sits on buckets rather than filling them.

• Manages to miss unturfing and backfilling, other nasty jobs.

• Far too good for the rest of us scum, subject to debilitating angst, has multiple deep, vocal prejudices, always right and highly critical: not a fun companion.

• Needs special diet (all chocolate, daily fresh kiwi fruit), sudden undisclosed medical problem requiring immediate bed rest.

• Not cooperative in domestic cleaning & cooking chores.

• Chronically late in AM